UJOH, the elegance of disobedience
At UJOH, the break is never brutal. It is subtle, almost intellectual. This season, the Japanese fashion house chooses questioning rather than revolution: revisiting its own codes to better assert them with its Autumn-Winter 2026 “ Antithesis” .
The result is a silhouette poised between discipline and defiance. UJOH's signature minimalism becomes more incisive, imbued with a grunge energy and a rock spirit directly inherited from the 1990s. Lines break, volumes breathe, proportions are liberated.
On the catwalk, contrasts orchestrate the aesthetic tension. A faux suede aviator jacket trimmed with faux fur meets the unexpected delicacy of lace. An oversized men's blazer stands out against translucent silhouettes. Zippers cut into the garments, opening up the structures and creating jagged lines that lend the looks an almost instinctive feel.
The material remains, at the heart of the project. Some fabrics are woven on a 1960s Schönherr loom, installed in Japan. Its speed, five times slower than that of contemporary looms, gives the textile back its time. From this slowness emerge unique nylons, transparent textures, and a subtle materiality that contrasts with the speed of contemporary fashion.
The palette is deliberately darkened: deep black, chocolate, and rosewood dominate the collection, punctuated by fern green and an almost mysterious "dark fig." Lighter tones—white and "sharkskin" beige—brighten these silhouettes, while the checks flirt with a grunge aesthetic.
Even the staging rejects classical narrative. The looks appear in a free order, like a wardrobe to browse rather than a story to follow.
In the midst of the season, an unexpected encounter: UJOH designed the stage costumes for the Japanese duo DREAMS COME TRUE for their tour. The techniques developed for this collaboration directly inform the collection.
More than a stylistic proposition, the house is sketching out a stance here: antithesis as a form of elegance. Knowing exactly what you are doing — and consciously choosing to reverse the rules.
Discover the looks from the UJOH fashion show below:
See the entire UJOH Fall/Winter 2026 collection runway show here
